http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/ Sun, 05 Sep 2010 18:40:01 -0500 MyBB http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=28 Thu, 08 Jul 2010 06:40:54 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=28
The most common problem is simply that the battery is either getting flat, is old and tired or, occasionally, faulty.

First check and clean all the connections, from starter to battery, every one.

Try your normal battery again. If all's OK, great. If not continue.

Now try another battery. Preferably a big, known good one. Like your car's. Try connecting the positive jumper lead direct to the positive starter terminal (the insulated one) and short the negative to the body of the starter motor. If it engages you know the motor is good. If not you'll need to do some more investigating inside.

Now try the jumper leads into the battery connector. A purpose built connector with short leads you can clip the jumpers onto helps here. Make sure you have a really good connection to the plug terminals or you're wasting your time. If the starter still works OK then you know the battery is the problem.

If the motor wont engage then it looks like the wiring or relay (or for mosquito owners, the switch) might be the problem.]]>
The most common problem is simply that the battery is either getting flat, is old and tired or, occasionally, faulty.

First check and clean all the connections, from starter to battery, every one.

Try your normal battery again. If all's OK, great. If not continue.

Now try another battery. Preferably a big, known good one. Like your car's. Try connecting the positive jumper lead direct to the positive starter terminal (the insulated one) and short the negative to the body of the starter motor. If it engages you know the motor is good. If not you'll need to do some more investigating inside.

Now try the jumper leads into the battery connector. A purpose built connector with short leads you can clip the jumpers onto helps here. Make sure you have a really good connection to the plug terminals or you're wasting your time. If the starter still works OK then you know the battery is the problem.

If the motor wont engage then it looks like the wiring or relay (or for mosquito owners, the switch) might be the problem.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=27 Tue, 09 Mar 2010 17:05:49 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=27 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=26 Wed, 03 Jun 2009 05:35:23 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=26 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=25 Sun, 22 Feb 2009 05:08:18 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=25
"The LD harness is very nice. Quality looks great and Peter Mack has
some very nice refinements on this model. The cruise control throttle
and magnetic legs are unique and work great. The remote blow prime
works too."]]>
"The LD harness is very nice. Quality looks great and Peter Mack has
some very nice refinements on this model. The cruise control throttle
and magnetic legs are unique and work great. The remote blow prime
works too."]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=24 Sun, 22 Feb 2009 05:00:10 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=24 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=23 Sun, 22 Feb 2009 04:53:26 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=23
Springs should all be safety wired, and filled with silicone to reduce vibration. Ideally high temperature silicone should be used, squeezing it into the centre of the spring and extending it onto the hooks. This serves two purposes:

Reduces spring vibration, and so fatigue and wear.
If the spring does break the silicone will hold the bits together.


Regular acetic cure silicone is OK too, but will be more likely to degrade around the hooks close to the pipe.]]>
Springs should all be safety wired, and filled with silicone to reduce vibration. Ideally high temperature silicone should be used, squeezing it into the centre of the spring and extending it onto the hooks. This serves two purposes:

Reduces spring vibration, and so fatigue and wear.
If the spring does break the silicone will hold the bits together.


Regular acetic cure silicone is OK too, but will be more likely to degrade around the hooks close to the pipe.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=22 Thu, 04 Dec 2008 05:16:14 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=22

We recommend rotating the ring gear 90 degrees every 100 hours to get the best life out of your ring gear. If your engine is hard to start it might pay to rotate it sooner.

Remove the flywheel.

Undo the four bolts holding the ring gear to the spacer,

rotate the ring gear clockwise (so you can remember which way to move it next time) 90 degrees and tighten the bolts again using thread lock.
Reinstall the flywheel, tighten nut to 50Nm torque.]]>

We recommend rotating the ring gear 90 degrees every 100 hours to get the best life out of your ring gear. If your engine is hard to start it might pay to rotate it sooner.

Remove the flywheel.

Undo the four bolts holding the ring gear to the spacer,

rotate the ring gear clockwise (so you can remember which way to move it next time) 90 degrees and tighten the bolts again using thread lock.
Reinstall the flywheel, tighten nut to 50Nm torque.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=21 Sat, 05 Jul 2008 07:01:51 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=21
There are a couple of solutions.


Clean the clutch with petrol or degreaser occasionaly.
Partially block the hole with a splinter of wood or some liquid metal. Be aware that if the object blocking the hole comes out it may damage the bearing or possibly even jam the clutch.


Engines that don't weep oil to the bearing should be given a regular light greasing.]]>
There are a couple of solutions.


Clean the clutch with petrol or degreaser occasionaly.
Partially block the hole with a splinter of wood or some liquid metal. Be aware that if the object blocking the hole comes out it may damage the bearing or possibly even jam the clutch.


Engines that don't weep oil to the bearing should be given a regular light greasing.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=20 Tue, 17 Jun 2008 01:53:30 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=20 I received my LD on the 09/06/08 well what a grate looking unit top engineering and lots of very good features and ideas, unfortunately when it got to me I had to wait for the weather to come right so on the 15/06/08 I got my first go 10 knot southerly very cold got it set up on my FUN190 and up up and away YeeHaar as this is my first motor harness I did not no what to expect very very cool every thing was so easy after five take offs and landings I was spent with excitement and called it quits and I only had limited time in the airspace I was in so to any one looking at this unit I would highly recommend it Thanks very much Peter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLuaHQn_Jdc]]> I received my LD on the 09/06/08 well what a grate looking unit top engineering and lots of very good features and ideas, unfortunately when it got to me I had to wait for the weather to come right so on the 15/06/08 I got my first go 10 knot southerly very cold got it set up on my FUN190 and up up and away YeeHaar as this is my first motor harness I did not no what to expect very very cool every thing was so easy after five take offs and landings I was spent with excitement and called it quits and I only had limited time in the airspace I was in so to any one looking at this unit I would highly recommend it Thanks very much Peter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLuaHQn_Jdc]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=19 Mon, 19 May 2008 06:46:15 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=19
Follow the checklist below and you have a good chance of solving the problem on an engine in basically good condition.


Disconnect the kill switch(es) from the ignition coil.
Unplug the fuel line from the carburettor and ensure fuel flows from it in a steady stream, reinstall. Keep the fuel tank above the engine.
Press or blow on the carburettor primer (as per your particular machine) and wait for a steady flow of fuel out of the carburettor mouth.
Remove the spark plug, rest it against the cylinder and crank the engine. Check for an obvious spark.
If you have an automatic decompressor, remove it and check the valve moves freely. Crank the engine and check for suction at the end of the hose. Re-assemble if OK.
Screw the low mixture screw (the short one) in gently until it stops, unscrew it one (1) full turn.
Turn the idle stop crew in until it stops then unscrew it three (3) turns.
If you have been trying to start it unsuccesfully for some time, crank the engine with the spark plug out, the fuel line off and the throttle wide open a few times. Leave the engine for a few hours if possible.
Put everything back together and start it up.



If you have followed this absolutely to the letter, then there are only a couple of other likely possibilities.


Your carby is blocked. Dismantle and clean, paying particular attention to the internal filter screens.
Gremlins are at home in your engine.



This all assumes you have an engine which has either never been started, or was stopped normally last time you ran it. If your engine stopped abnormally last time it ran then the possibilities become far more complicated.

The most common problems are an earthed kill switch somewhere and a lack of fuel getting through due to a blockage. The decompressor can occasionally give problems but most commonly after a lot of use, sometimes the valve is sticky, sometimes the non-return valve in the hose can leak.

Remember, your engine needs fuel/air mixture, spark and compression to run - that's all. Fuel flow is checked easily, spark too. If the engine is new or was stopped normally last run you can be 99.99% sure compression is OK. Mixture is very simple to set on the Radne as it only has an adjustable low speed jet, the only other problem with mixture is from flooding the engine (that's why we say to leave it a while).

Good Luck.]]>
Follow the checklist below and you have a good chance of solving the problem on an engine in basically good condition.


Disconnect the kill switch(es) from the ignition coil.
Unplug the fuel line from the carburettor and ensure fuel flows from it in a steady stream, reinstall. Keep the fuel tank above the engine.
Press or blow on the carburettor primer (as per your particular machine) and wait for a steady flow of fuel out of the carburettor mouth.
Remove the spark plug, rest it against the cylinder and crank the engine. Check for an obvious spark.
If you have an automatic decompressor, remove it and check the valve moves freely. Crank the engine and check for suction at the end of the hose. Re-assemble if OK.
Screw the low mixture screw (the short one) in gently until it stops, unscrew it one (1) full turn.
Turn the idle stop crew in until it stops then unscrew it three (3) turns.
If you have been trying to start it unsuccesfully for some time, crank the engine with the spark plug out, the fuel line off and the throttle wide open a few times. Leave the engine for a few hours if possible.
Put everything back together and start it up.



If you have followed this absolutely to the letter, then there are only a couple of other likely possibilities.


Your carby is blocked. Dismantle and clean, paying particular attention to the internal filter screens.
Gremlins are at home in your engine.



This all assumes you have an engine which has either never been started, or was stopped normally last time you ran it. If your engine stopped abnormally last time it ran then the possibilities become far more complicated.

The most common problems are an earthed kill switch somewhere and a lack of fuel getting through due to a blockage. The decompressor can occasionally give problems but most commonly after a lot of use, sometimes the valve is sticky, sometimes the non-return valve in the hose can leak.

Remember, your engine needs fuel/air mixture, spark and compression to run - that's all. Fuel flow is checked easily, spark too. If the engine is new or was stopped normally last run you can be 99.99% sure compression is OK. Mixture is very simple to set on the Radne as it only has an adjustable low speed jet, the only other problem with mixture is from flooding the engine (that's why we say to leave it a while).

Good Luck.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=18 Mon, 28 Apr 2008 20:30:06 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=18
This allows the throttle to go from idle to wide open with less travel at the mouthpiece, and still leaves some slack in the cable at idle to prevent accidental rev-ups.

This picture shows the general layout.


Drill a 2mm (5/64") hole. Place a piece of metal behind the shaft when drilling to prevent damage to the carburettor body.

When setting the cable length ensure the cable has some slack at idle (to allow for bends in the housing) but still has a small amount of travel left when the carburettor throttle arm strikes it's stop at wide open.

When setting the cable length ensure the cable has some slack at idle (to allow for bends in the housing) but still has a small amount of travel left when the carburettor throttle arm strikes it's stop at wide open.

This photo shows how the throttle is best operated.


Left hand versions are supplied as standard to make VG/VB use easier (RH version shown).]]>
This allows the throttle to go from idle to wide open with less travel at the mouthpiece, and still leaves some slack in the cable at idle to prevent accidental rev-ups.

This picture shows the general layout.


Drill a 2mm (5/64") hole. Place a piece of metal behind the shaft when drilling to prevent damage to the carburettor body.

When setting the cable length ensure the cable has some slack at idle (to allow for bends in the housing) but still has a small amount of travel left when the carburettor throttle arm strikes it's stop at wide open.

When setting the cable length ensure the cable has some slack at idle (to allow for bends in the housing) but still has a small amount of travel left when the carburettor throttle arm strikes it's stop at wide open.

This photo shows how the throttle is best operated.


Left hand versions are supplied as standard to make VG/VB use easier (RH version shown).]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=17 Tue, 19 Feb 2008 04:42:39 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=17
The following list covers some of the more common reasons for reduced power.


Choke not fully opening. If the choke is not fully open it will act as a throttle limiter. Remove the air cleaner/box and check the choke is opening parallel to the carburettor throat.
Fuel blockages - check the fuel filters, both inline and within the carburettor itself. The internal one is quite small and easily blocked.
Carburettor diaphragms. These can become hard with age and prevent the carburettor functioning properly. Kits are cheap and easy to fit.
Metering lever and needle. These usually only alter settings after human intervention - ie after you've fiddled with them. Be methodical and careful when setting the metering lever height, it's not difficult but it does need to be done reasonably accurately.
Decompression valve. Carbon deposits can make the valve stick and not close properly, reducing compression. Remove and clean.
Carbon deposits in the cylinder and ports. Every 100hrs minimum remove the cylinder and clean the carbon deposits from the head area and the ports. The exhaust is the one most likely to get carbon deposit build ups, removing the exhaust and looking at the port will give you an idea of how much carbon might be inside.
Worn rings. Replace every 200 hrs. Note: if you use other than premium quality synthetic oil you will get much faster carbon build up and much faster ring wear.
Occasionally the cylinder base gasket can leak, look for oil deposits in that area.
Other. There are other reasons for unexplained power reduction, but they are generally less common and harder to identify and resolve.


Finally, altitude density or the effective density of the air can be a cause. If you are flying in hot or humid conditions, if the barometric pressure is low, or you are at a higher altitude to start with then you will experience some reduction of power. If all the above apply it can become quite noticeable.]]>
The following list covers some of the more common reasons for reduced power.


Choke not fully opening. If the choke is not fully open it will act as a throttle limiter. Remove the air cleaner/box and check the choke is opening parallel to the carburettor throat.
Fuel blockages - check the fuel filters, both inline and within the carburettor itself. The internal one is quite small and easily blocked.
Carburettor diaphragms. These can become hard with age and prevent the carburettor functioning properly. Kits are cheap and easy to fit.
Metering lever and needle. These usually only alter settings after human intervention - ie after you've fiddled with them. Be methodical and careful when setting the metering lever height, it's not difficult but it does need to be done reasonably accurately.
Decompression valve. Carbon deposits can make the valve stick and not close properly, reducing compression. Remove and clean.
Carbon deposits in the cylinder and ports. Every 100hrs minimum remove the cylinder and clean the carbon deposits from the head area and the ports. The exhaust is the one most likely to get carbon deposit build ups, removing the exhaust and looking at the port will give you an idea of how much carbon might be inside.
Worn rings. Replace every 200 hrs. Note: if you use other than premium quality synthetic oil you will get much faster carbon build up and much faster ring wear.
Occasionally the cylinder base gasket can leak, look for oil deposits in that area.
Other. There are other reasons for unexplained power reduction, but they are generally less common and harder to identify and resolve.


Finally, altitude density or the effective density of the air can be a cause. If you are flying in hot or humid conditions, if the barometric pressure is low, or you are at a higher altitude to start with then you will experience some reduction of power. If all the above apply it can become quite noticeable.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=16 Sun, 13 Jan 2008 00:13:03 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=16 Both the Nippon Denso W22MP-U and the NGK BPM7A have been supplied standard by Radne.

Equivalent alternatives include:
Champion CJ7Y or CJ6Y (depends on reference which they quote)
Bosch - WS8F
NGK - BPM7A
Nippondenso - W22MP-U
Autolite - 2974
AC - CS42S

For less radio interference use a resistor spark plug, equivalents:
Equivalent to:
Champion RCJ6Y
Bosch - WSR5F
NGK - BPMR7A
Nippondenso - W22MP-U]]> Both the Nippon Denso W22MP-U and the NGK BPM7A have been supplied standard by Radne.

Equivalent alternatives include:
Champion CJ7Y or CJ6Y (depends on reference which they quote)
Bosch - WS8F
NGK - BPM7A
Nippondenso - W22MP-U
Autolite - 2974
AC - CS42S

For less radio interference use a resistor spark plug, equivalents:
Equivalent to:
Champion RCJ6Y
Bosch - WSR5F
NGK - BPMR7A
Nippondenso - W22MP-U]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=15 Thu, 10 Jan 2008 16:44:42 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=15
The Explorer harnesses (except some very early ones with 17mm) use a 5/8" shaft with a 1/4" cross hole 51mm (ctr) to the rear of the bearing face.

The Mosquitos use a 17mm shaft with a 6mm cross hole.]]>
The Explorer harnesses (except some very early ones with 17mm) use a 5/8" shaft with a 1/4" cross hole 51mm (ctr) to the rear of the bearing face.

The Mosquitos use a 17mm shaft with a 6mm cross hole.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=14 Fri, 04 Jan 2008 05:29:46 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=14
The cause is often air bubbles collecting in the fuel line just outside the carburettor when at idle. On increasing revs the fuel flow increases and draws the bubbles into the carburettor, causing a brief power reduction.

The problem seems to be only with those machines using 6mm (1/4") fuel lines.

We find the simplest solution is to remove the white plastic nipple covering the brass barb fuel inlet on the carburettor and fit 3mm (1/8") fuel line. This seems to keep the velocity of the fuel in the line high enough to prevent a large bubble from forming.
The nipple is most easily removed by carefully scoring deeply (but not right through) along its' length with a sharp knife, then cutting directly in from the end. It should split along the score. Repeat on the opposite side and it will easily come off.

An additional measure is to route the 3mm (1/4") line so it passes below the carburettor and bends up to the nipple. This prevents any bubbles that do form from developing along the fuel line.

We recommend anyone with 6mm (1/4") fuel line to replace it with 3mm, at least for the last section into the carburettor.]]>
The cause is often air bubbles collecting in the fuel line just outside the carburettor when at idle. On increasing revs the fuel flow increases and draws the bubbles into the carburettor, causing a brief power reduction.

The problem seems to be only with those machines using 6mm (1/4") fuel lines.

We find the simplest solution is to remove the white plastic nipple covering the brass barb fuel inlet on the carburettor and fit 3mm (1/8") fuel line. This seems to keep the velocity of the fuel in the line high enough to prevent a large bubble from forming.
The nipple is most easily removed by carefully scoring deeply (but not right through) along its' length with a sharp knife, then cutting directly in from the end. It should split along the score. Repeat on the opposite side and it will easily come off.

An additional measure is to route the 3mm (1/4") line so it passes below the carburettor and bends up to the nipple. This prevents any bubbles that do form from developing along the fuel line.

We recommend anyone with 6mm (1/4") fuel line to replace it with 3mm, at least for the last section into the carburettor.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=13 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 05:20:22 -0600 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=13
The 'second' tank is connected to the engine, and a hose connects from it to your original tank outlet. As fuel is used from the second tank (the one connected to the engine) a slight vacuum is pulled that 'sucks' fuel from the other tank. Your original tank will empty first, then when that is empty the second tank will empty.

If there are any air leaks in the system, the vacuum will not develop and fuel will not transfer from tank to tank. Due to the numerous potential leak points and the time required to thoroughly test and trace any leaks we do not supply guaranteed dual tank systems. We will supply all the components pre-assembled but not tested. If your system does not work you will need to check all hose connections and caps & seals.

Earlier Explorers used a different fuel fitting from the present one. If you are installing a new dual tank you will need to determine which type of quick connect fittings you have. We will only supply the new style as they are more reliable than the old. You may either purchase a new set of fittings to replace your existing ones, or source your own matching old style fittings (try outboard motor parts suppliers).]]>
The 'second' tank is connected to the engine, and a hose connects from it to your original tank outlet. As fuel is used from the second tank (the one connected to the engine) a slight vacuum is pulled that 'sucks' fuel from the other tank. Your original tank will empty first, then when that is empty the second tank will empty.

If there are any air leaks in the system, the vacuum will not develop and fuel will not transfer from tank to tank. Due to the numerous potential leak points and the time required to thoroughly test and trace any leaks we do not supply guaranteed dual tank systems. We will supply all the components pre-assembled but not tested. If your system does not work you will need to check all hose connections and caps & seals.

Earlier Explorers used a different fuel fitting from the present one. If you are installing a new dual tank you will need to determine which type of quick connect fittings you have. We will only supply the new style as they are more reliable than the old. You may either purchase a new set of fittings to replace your existing ones, or source your own matching old style fittings (try outboard motor parts suppliers).]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=12 Mon, 08 Oct 2007 20:35:46 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=12
Moyes suggest you remove the sail, rig the frame and measure and duplicate the same geometry. The keel should not be straight but have about 16 mm curve in the centre.

Moyes may also do the modifications for you in the factory.]]>
Moyes suggest you remove the sail, rig the frame and measure and duplicate the same geometry. The keel should not be straight but have about 16 mm curve in the centre.

Moyes may also do the modifications for you in the factory.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=11 Thu, 30 Aug 2007 01:45:14 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=11 with plastic big pulleys and hollow shafts, the bolt that attaches the pulley to the propshaft can fail. This bolt should be checked every 25 hours for signs of wear.

Any overload (eg prop strike) will significantly hasten failure too.

The solution was a close tolerance high strength aircraft bolt,
available from Airtime Products

Once you have had a failure you need to VERY carefully check the shaft
and pulley holes for any sign of ovalisation (the pulley is hard to
check as it is the inside surface that will fail). If the holes have
started to go oval you will likely have ongoing problems. Neither of
these parts are really repairable (although I will shortly be testing
a new solution that might make old pulleys repairable). The pulley can
be re-drilled and reamed, but finding someone who can do it accurately
can be hard (the drill has to reach in a long way to get to the hub).
The shafts are hardened at the ends, so you can pretty much forget
redrilling them without annealing and re-hardening.

If the holes look nice and round with no burrs raised on the edges
(was the pulley really hard to get off the shaft? If it was you can be
pretty sure the hole has started to go oval) a new bolt should fix it.
These bolts will have a concave recessed in their heads and be a
slightly gold colour.

If you want, you can put the pulley back on with some high strength,
slow setting Loctite mounting adhesive as well as the bolt, try to
twist the pulley hard onto the bolt in the same direction the load
will go when in use. This should take a lot of the shock loading off
the bolt (no guarantees there). If you need to get the pulley of later
a bit of judicious heating with a gas flame will soften the Loctite -
you'll need to replace the bearings after heating the pulley though
(they are also Loctited in).]]> with plastic big pulleys and hollow shafts, the bolt that attaches the pulley to the propshaft can fail. This bolt should be checked every 25 hours for signs of wear.

Any overload (eg prop strike) will significantly hasten failure too.

The solution was a close tolerance high strength aircraft bolt,
available from Airtime Products

Once you have had a failure you need to VERY carefully check the shaft
and pulley holes for any sign of ovalisation (the pulley is hard to
check as it is the inside surface that will fail). If the holes have
started to go oval you will likely have ongoing problems. Neither of
these parts are really repairable (although I will shortly be testing
a new solution that might make old pulleys repairable). The pulley can
be re-drilled and reamed, but finding someone who can do it accurately
can be hard (the drill has to reach in a long way to get to the hub).
The shafts are hardened at the ends, so you can pretty much forget
redrilling them without annealing and re-hardening.

If the holes look nice and round with no burrs raised on the edges
(was the pulley really hard to get off the shaft? If it was you can be
pretty sure the hole has started to go oval) a new bolt should fix it.
These bolts will have a concave recessed in their heads and be a
slightly gold colour.

If you want, you can put the pulley back on with some high strength,
slow setting Loctite mounting adhesive as well as the bolt, try to
twist the pulley hard onto the bolt in the same direction the load
will go when in use. This should take a lot of the shock loading off
the bolt (no guarantees there). If you need to get the pulley of later
a bit of judicious heating with a gas flame will soften the Loctite -
you'll need to replace the bearings after heating the pulley though
(they are also Loctited in).]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=10 Sun, 26 Aug 2007 22:07:47 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=10
[attachment=3]
Thread a cord from between the blades out under the blade pivot, through the bungy loop and back out between the blades. Tuck the bungy under the wing of the hub.
[attachment=4]
Pull the doubled cord until you can stretch the bungy over the button (you'll need to hold the hub and blade apart slightly).
[attachment=5]
Slip the cord out from between the button and bungy and gently pull it out. Make sure the join in the bungy is out of the way as the blade opens and closes.]]>
[attachment=3]
Thread a cord from between the blades out under the blade pivot, through the bungy loop and back out between the blades. Tuck the bungy under the wing of the hub.
[attachment=4]
Pull the doubled cord until you can stretch the bungy over the button (you'll need to hold the hub and blade apart slightly).
[attachment=5]
Slip the cord out from between the button and bungy and gently pull it out. Make sure the join in the bungy is out of the way as the blade opens and closes.]]> http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=9 Tue, 03 Jul 2007 19:20:43 -0500 http://airtimeproducts.com.au/forums/showthread.php?tid=9
Look for the connection between the brass lug and aluminium. If there is any corrosion here, clean it off and give it a coat of lacquer to protect it in future. (P. Roche)]]>
Look for the connection between the brass lug and aluminium. If there is any corrosion here, clean it off and give it a coat of lacquer to protect it in future. (P. Roche)]]>